The traveller district: trekking gear, bookshops, thangka studios, momo houses and the agencies that arrange every trip in Nepal.
Most 'branded' gear is copied — fine for a day walk, not for a high pass. Compare three agencies before booking a trek and check that permits and insurance are included in writing.
Must visit
The old royal square in the middle of the city, with the Kumari's house, Hanuman Dhoka palace and…
Must visit
A hilltop stupa above the city, reached by 365 steps, with painted eyes on all four sides and a valley…
Must visit
Nepal's holiest Hindu site, on the Bagmati, where open-air cremations take place on the ghats…
Must visit
The most concentrated collection of Newari architecture anywhere, with a royal palace turned museum…