The 17th-century main street of Shahjahanabad, now a lattice of wholesale lanes selling everything from wedding silk to parathas fried in the same shop since 1872.
Most wholesale lanes shut on Sunday. Take a cycle rickshaw for the first loop to get your bearings, then walk. Keep valuables in a front pocket — it is crowded rather than dangerous.
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India's largest mosque, built by Shah Jahan, with a courtyard for 25,000 and a minaret you can climb…
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