Small heritage hotel on the ghats with river-facing rooms and a good terrace restaurant.
Shivala Ghat
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A rowing boat from Assi to Manikarnika at first light — the single best way to understand how the city uses its river.
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The southernmost main ghat, quieter than Dashashwamedh, with a morning aarti, yoga sessions and a student crowd from the university.
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The main ghat and the site of the nightly Ganga aarti, when seven priests perform a synchronised fire ritual to the river.
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The lane leading to the temple, packed with silk shops, brassware, prasad stalls and the city's best-known lassi shop.
A restored 1812 palace directly on Darbhanga Ghat, reached by boat or by lift from the…